By The Low-Hanging Fruit in Energy Efficiency
Home energy efficiency improvements exist on a spectrum from free behavioral changes to expensive system replacements. The lowest-cost, highest-return improvements are available to almost any homeowner or renter and don’t require permits, contractors, or significant disruption.
This matters because most homeowners who think about energy efficiency immediately jump to solar panels, new windows, or HVAC replacement, which are expensive and have longer payback periods. The $50 to $500 improvements often produce better returns per dollar invested and work in any home regardless of condition.
LED Lighting: The Five-Year Payback That’s Probably Overdue
If you haven’t fully converted to LED lighting, do it now. A standard 60-watt incandescent bulb replaced by a 9-watt LED uses 85 percent less electricity for the same light output. The LED bulb costs $1 to $3 and lasts 15,000 to 25,000 hours versus 1,000 hours for incandescent.
For a home with 30 bulbs that are still incandescent, the electricity savings from full LED conversion is typically $120 to $200 per year. The bulbs cost $30 to $90 to replace. Payback is three to nine months.
This is not a complex or interesting improvement. It’s just the one that almost every home still has available.
Weatherstripping and Door Sweeps
Air leaks through gaps in weatherstripping and door bottoms are among the most common and most affordable sources of energy loss. Cold air in winter, hot air in summer, flowing in through gaps that cost $10 to $30 per door to fix.
A quick test: on a windy day, hold your hand near the edges of exterior doors and windows. If you feel air movement, you have a gap that’s costing you money on heating and cooling year round.
A foam backer rod or self-adhesive weatherstripping for a door costs $5 to $15. A door sweep for the door bottom costs $10 to $25. A handy person installs these in 30 minutes per door. The energy savings from properly sealed doors is typically $15 to $40 per year per door in climates with significant temperature variation.
Water Heater Improvements Without Replacement
Your water heater, if it’s in an unconditioned space like a garage or basement, loses heat to the surrounding environment constantly. An insulating water heater blanket costs $20 to $30 and reduces standby heat loss by 25 to 45 percent on older units.
Insulating the first three feet of hot water pipes where they exit the water heater reduces heat loss as the water travels to fixtures. Pipe insulation is sold in foam sleeves at hardware stores for approximately $0.50 to $1 per linear foot.
Lowering the water heater thermostat to 120°F from the common factory setting of 140°F reduces energy consumption by 4 to 22 percent depending on the unit. This is free and also reduces scalding risk.
Programmable and Smart Thermostat
A programmable or smart thermostat that adjusts temperature based on occupancy and schedule is one of the highest-return single energy upgrades available.
The benefit: automatic temperature setback when you’re away or sleeping, without requiring you to remember to adjust the thermostat. The Department of Energy estimates 10 percent savings on heating and cooling bills from 7 to 10 degree setbacks during appropriate periods.
A basic programmable thermostat costs $20 to $40. A smart thermostat with learning capabilities and remote control costs $150 to $250. At 10 percent savings on a $200 per month combined heating and cooling bill, payback on the basic thermostat is under three months. Payback on the smart thermostat is 12 to 18 months.
